Caroline Edwards

Caroline Evans

Caroline Evans analyses the work of experimental designers, the images of fashion photographers, and the spectacular fashion shows that developed in the final decade of the twentieth century to arrive at a new understanding of fashion's dark side and what it signifies? Drawing on a variety of literary and theoretical perspectives - from Marx to Benjamin - Evans argues that fashion plays a leading role in constructing images and meanings during periods of rapid change. She shows persuasively that fashion stands at the very centre of the contemporary, where it voices some of Western culture's deepest concerns.

Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness

Fashion at the Edge

Spectacle, Modernity, and Deathliness

Hussein Chalayan

For millions of people around the world, Tibet is a domain of undisturbed tradition, the Dalai Lama a spiritual guide. By contrast, the Tibet Museum opened in Lhasa by the Chinese in 1999 was designed to reclassify Tibetan objects as cultural relics and the Dalai Lama as obsolete. Suggesting that both these views are suspect, Clare E. Harris argues in The Museum on the Roof of the World that for the past one hundred and fifty years, British and Chinese collectors and curators have tried to convert Tibet itself into a museum, an image some Tibetans have begun to contest. This bookis a powerful account of the museums created by, for, or on behalf of Tibetans and the nationalist agendas that have played out in them. Harris begins with the British public's first encounter with Tibetan culture in 1854. She then examines the role of imperial collectors and photographers in representations of the region and visits competing museums of Tibet in India and Lhasa. Drawing on fieldwork in Tibetan communities, she also documents the activities of contemporary Tibetan artists as they try to displace the utopian visions of their country prevalent in the West, as well as the negative assessments of their heritage common in China. Illustrated with many previously unpublished images, this book addresses the pressing question of who has the right to represent Tibet in museums and beyond.

A superlative study of the roots of the modern fashion show

Modernism and the First Fashion Shows in France and America, 1900-1929

The Mechanical Smile

Alistair O'Neill

Kaat Debo

- An overview of the most drastic changes in the fashion world today, how it is evolving, and what the future holds - Noted fashion historians write perceptively about the importance of fashion and its place in the world In this timely book, three noted fashion historians examine the global transformations in the fashion industry today, and identify the challenges of the future. Since the dawn of designer fashion at the beginning of the 20th century, the role and position of the designer has drastically changed. This book addresses how the interpretation of creativity, authorship, craft, and innovation have evolved in this new context, and asks what role designers play in a globalized and digitized fashion world.

Fashion in Transition

Emotion

Christopher Breward

This book tests the very definition of modernity and enhances our understanding of the role of fashion in the modern world. From top hats to locomotives, dresses to retail outlets, fashion is a prism through which modernity reflects and refracts. Breward and Evans bring together an organic collaboration of voices on this subject. The collection ranges from such topics as James Morrison (1789-1857), the Napoleon of Shopkeepers; to dress in the Stuart era; The Mannequin Parade, 1900-1925; and clothing the London actress (1860-1914). From the relationship between clothing and forensic sciences, to the play of performance, parasexuality, and the celebrity, Fashion and Modernity offers an enlightening look at fashion and the modern age.

Fashion and Modernity

Alessandra Vaccari

Few phenomena embody the notion of time as well as fashion. Fast-moving and rooted in the 'now', it's constantly creating its own past through the process of rapid style change. Uniquely poised between the past and the future, fashion's relationship with time is unorthodox. Rather than considering time in the conventional sense, this anthology explores three alternative ways to think about fashion and time: the first identifies the seasonal nature of fashion as an industry, and shows how this has impacted on workers and wearers alike. The second looks at fashion design as a ceaseless process of adaptation, reconstruction and recombination of motifs, in which nostalgia and revivals play their part. The third construes fashion's 'imaginary', with its capacity for fantasy and myth-making, as a form of alternate history that asks 'what if?' Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.

Industrial, Antilinear and Uchronic Temporalities

Time in Fashion

Edwina Ehrman

Histoire de la mode à Londres, ses créateurs, des maisons de couture, ses tendandes, de 1800 à nos jours, de la rue aux podiums.

Fashion from Street to Catwalk

The London Look

What is the relationship between fashion and modernity, and how is this unique relationship manifested in the material world? This book considers how the relationship between fashion and modernity tests the very definition of modernity and enhances our understanding of the role of fashion in the modern world.

"Recent experimental fashion has a dark side, a preoccupation with representations of death, trauma, alientation, and decay. This ... book looks closely at this strand of fashion design in the 1990s, exploring what its disturbing themes tell us about consumer culture and contemporary anxieties ... Fashion at the Edge considers a range of cutting-edge contemporary fashion in ... depth and detail, including the works of such current designers as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Viktor and Rolf and Martin Margiela"--Cover.

Judith Clark

An exploration of the role of the handbag in the history of culture, fashion, and material production

The Making of a Museum

Handbags

Susannah Frankel

The first major overview of the duo's career. Includes 200 images by such renowned photographers as Herb Ritts and Juergen Teller.

The House of Viktor & Rolf

Pochi fenomeni esprimono in modo preciso la nozione di tempo come la moda. Per definizione la moda deve sempre essere attuale, ma la sua relazione con il tempo non si limita al presente. Al contrario, nella moda entrano in gioco e si mescolano diverse concezioni del tempo. Il libro individua tre qualità principali del tempo in relazione alla moda: industriale, antilineare e ucronico. La prima sezione riflette sul modo in cui l’industria della moda crea e misura i propri tempi, come stagioni, anni, decenni. Indaga il concetto di modernità e analizza la sfida tra Zeitgeist della moda e storicismo. La sezione antilineare è dedicata alla particolare concezione circolare o labirintica del tempo della moda. Oggetto della sezione sono i modi in cui passato e presente sono al centro di un continuo lavoro di ricostruzione e ricombinazione nelle forme di nostalgia e revival. La terza e ultima sezione, dedicata all’ucronia, è un’esplorazione dell’immaginario e della fantasia della moda, con la sua predisposizione a fare previsioni di tendenza e a ingannare il tempo e i processi dell’invecchiamento. Ogni sezione comprende un’introduzione che guida il lettore nell’articolazione del discorso e ne illustra le varie connessioni. Il libro mette insieme testi chiave sulla materia, con un approccio interdisciplinare che spazia dalla filosofia alla storia, dai media al design della moda, in un arco temporale che va dal XIX secolo al presente. L’ampia varietà di fonti usate comprende libri e cataloghi di mostre, articoli scientifici e giornalistici, interviste e autobiografie. Il libro è pensato per tutti coloro che intendono comprendere uno dei meccanismi più affascinanti della moda: la sua relazione con il tempo. Si propone inoltre come una lettura critica fondamentale per chi studia la moda, la sua storia, i suoi processi creativi e la sua commercializzazione.

Caroline Evans

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