Jane L. Collins

Americans have been shocked by media reports of the dismal working conditions in factories that make clothing for U.S. companies. But while well intentioned, many of these reports about child labor and sweatshop practices rely on stereotypes of how Third World factories operate, ignoring the complex economic dynamics driving the global apparel industry. To dispel these misunderstandings, Jane L. Collins visited two very different apparel firms and their factories in the United States and Mexico. Moving from corporate headquarters to factory floors, her study traces the diverse ties that link First and Third World workers and managers, producers and consumers. Collins examines how the transnational economics of the apparel industry allow firms to relocate or subcontract their work anywhere in the world, making it much harder for garment workers in the United States or any other country to demand fair pay and humane working conditions. Putting a human face on globalization, Threads shows not only how international trade affects local communities but also how workers can organize in this new environment to more effectively demand better treatment from their distant corporate employers.

Gender, Labor, and Power in the Global Apparel Industry

Threads

Martha E. Gimenez

production for family consumption and for the wider market. While the importance of womens domestic labor has been generally recognized, the complex articulation between household activities and the changing nature of the economy has rarely been examined in greater depth than in this volume. The authors explore, theoretically and empirically, the relationships between household labor, wage levels, markets, economic change, and the status of women in the context of both first and third world countries. In the process, narrowly-defined debates are expanded, suggesting ways in which our understanding of domestic activities is relevant to studies of petty commodity production and vice versa.

Comparative Studies of Domestic Labor and Self-Employment

Work Without Wages

Victoria Mayer

Both Hands Tied studies the working poor in the United States, focusing in particular on the relation between welfare and low-wage earnings among working mothers. Grounded in the experience of thirty-three women living in Milwaukee and Racine, Wisconsin, it tells the story of their struggle to balance child care and wage-earning in poorly paying and often state-funded jobs with inflexible schedules—and the moments when these jobs failed them and they turned to the state for additional aid. Jane L. Collins and Victoria Mayer here examine the situations of these women in light of the 1996 national Personal Responsibility and Work Opportunity Reconciliation Act and other like-minded reforms—laws that ended the entitlement to welfare for those in need and provided an incentive for them to return to work. Arguing that this reform came at a time of gendered change in the labor force and profound shifts in the responsibilities of family, firms, and the state, Both Hands Tied provides a stark but poignant portrait of how welfare reform afflicted poor, single-parent families, ultimately eroding the participants’ economic rights and affecting their ability to care for themselves and their children.

Welfare Reform and the Race to the Bottom in the Low-Wage Labor Market

Both Hands Tied

Introduction -- Value and the social division of labor -- Benefit corporations: reimagining corporate responsibility -- Slow Money: the value of place -- Value and the public sector -- Conclusion: comparing the three revaluation projects

Jane L. Collins

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