Kat Jungnickel

An illustrated history of the evolution of British women's cycle wear. The bicycle in Victorian Britain is often celebrated as a vehicle of women's liberation. Less noted is another critical technology with which women forged new and mobile public lives—cycle wear. This illustrated account of women's cycle wear from Goldsmiths Press brings together Victorian engineering and radical feminist invention to supply a missing chapter in the history of feminism. Despite its benefits, cycling was a material and ideological minefield for women. Conventional fashions were unworkable, with skirts catching in wheels and tangling in pedals. Yet wearing “rational” cycle wear could provoke verbal and sometimes physical abuse from those threatened by newly mobile women. Seeking a solution, pioneering women not only imagined, made, and wore radical new forms of cycle wear but also patented their inventive designs. The most remarkable of these were convertible costumes that enabled wearers to transform ordinary clothing into cycle wear. Drawing on in-depth archival research and inventive practice, Kat Jungnickel brings to life in rich detail the little-known stories of six inventors of the 1890s. Alice Bygrave, a dressmaker of Brixton, registered four patents for a skirt with a dual pulley system built into its seams. Julia Gill, a court dressmaker of Haverstock Hill, patented a skirt that drew material up the waist using a mechanism of rings or eyelets. Mary and Sarah Pease, sisters from York, patented a skirt that could be quickly converted into a fashionable high-collar cape. Henrietta Müller, a women's rights activist of Maidenhead, patented a three-part cycling suit with a concealed system of loops and buttons to elevate the skirt. And Mary Ann Ward, a gentlewoman of Bristol, patented the “Hyde Park Safety Skirt,” which gathered fabric at intervals using a series of side buttons on the skirt. Their unique contributions to cycling's past continue to shape urban life for contemporary mobile women.

Victorian Women Inventors and their Extraordinary Cycle Wear

Bikes and Bloomers

Researchers rethink tactics for inventing and disseminating research, examining the use of such unconventional forms as poetry, performance, catalogs, interactive machines, costume, and digital platforms. Transmission is the research moment when invention meets dissemination—the tactical combination of making (how theory, methods, and data shape research) and communicating (how research is shown and shared). In this book, researchers from a range of disciplines examine tactics for the transmission of research, exploring such unconventional forms as poetry, performance, catalogs, interactive machines, costume, and digital platforms. Focusing on transmissions draws attention to a critical part of the research process commonly overlooked and undervalued. Too often, the results of radically experimental research methodologies are pressed into conventional formats. The contributors to Transmissions rethink tactics for making and communicating research as integral to the kind of projects they do, pushing against disciplinary edges with unexpected and creative combinations and collaborations. Each chapter focuses on a different tactic of transmission. One contributor merges literary styles of the empirical and poetic; another uses an angle grinder to construct machines of enquiry. One project invites readers to participate in an exchange about value; another provides a series of catalog cards to materialize ordering systems of knowledge. All the contributors share a commitment to uniting the what with the how, firmly situating their transmissions in their research and in each unique chapter of this book. Contributors Nerea Calvillo, Rebecca Coleman, Larissa Hjorth, Janis Jefferies, Kat Jungnickel, Sarah Kember, Max Liboiron, Kristina Lindström, Alexandra Lippman, Bonnie Mak, Julien McHardy, Julia Pollack, Ingrid Richardson, Åsa Ståhl, Laura Watts

Critical Tactics for Making and Communicating Research

Transmissions

Larissa Hjorth

Anne M. Harris

Gretchen Coombs

Creative Practice Ethnographies focuses on the intersection of creative practice and ethnography and offers new ways to think about the methods, practice, and promise of research in contemporary interdisciplinary contexts. How does creative practice inform new ways of doing ethnography and vice versa? What new forms of expression and engagement are made possible as a result of these creative synergies? By addressing these questions, the authors highlight the important roles that ethnography and creative practice play in socially impactful research. This book is aimed at interdisciplinary researchers, scholars, and students of art, design, sociology, anthropology, games, media, education, and cultural studies.

Kat Jungnickel

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