Peter Gillman

Leni Gillman

A biography of the British mountaineer George Mallory whose death near the summit of Everest in 1924 has become legendary.

The Biography of George Mallory

The Wildest Dream

Traces Bowie's multifaceted career, from his first forays into commercial music to his status as a respected performer, and provides insight into the strange world of rock music and multimedia entertaining

A Biography

Alias David Bowie

•The classic story of a notorious climb, now revised, updated, and expanded by the original author with new information •Literally a race to ascend Europe’s most formidable mountain wall—Brits and Americans versus Germans The North Face of the Eiger was long renowned as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had cost the lives of numerous skilled mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams—one German, the other British/American—aimed to climb it in a straight line from bottom to top. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each other's attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The race was on. The Anglo-American team of John Harlin, Layton Kor, and Dougal Haston intended to make a dash to the summit when conditions were right. The Germans, with an eight-man team and a mass of equipment, planned a slow, relentless ascent. Watching all was a young journalist, Peter Gillman. Now, fifty years later, Gillman recalls the dramatic events on the North Face, and assesses their effect on those who took part. The charismatic and controversial American climber John Harlin was killed before the summit was reached, while others were permanently injured through frostbite. For British photographer Chris Bonington, who was sucked into the action, it opened a path to a career and reputation as Britain's foremost mountaineer. “It was incredibly challenging and probably some of the hardest climbing done in the Alps to that time,” remembers Bonington. “Being involved was absolutely fantastic. There’s never been anything like it for me, before or since.” This title is part of our LEGENDS AND LORE series. Click here > to learn more.

The Race to Climb the Eiger Direct

Extreme Eiger

Il monte Eiger, sulle alpi svizzere, è conosciuto anche come “il muro della morte” per la pericolosità della ascensione, che negli anni è costata la vita a moltissimi climber. Nel 1966 due team – uno tedesco, l’altro anglo-americano – cercarono di aprire una via che salisse lungo una perfetta verticale: la Diretta. Le due squadre rivali dapprima si ignorarono, poi furono costrette a scegliere: cooperare e dividere la gloria, o competere fino alla fine? La sfida era iniziata. John Harlin – il leader del gruppo anglo-americano – voleva scalare a ritmo serrato, mentre i tedeschi avevano pianificato una salita lenta. Un giovane inviato del «Daily Telegraph», Peter Gillman, osserverà questa gara estrema con un telescopio dall’hotel più vicino alla parete. Cinquant’anni dopo, possiamo rivivere le forti emozioni di questa incredibile impresa, che ha cambiato definitivamente il concetto di scalata e il modo di organizzare le escursioni in alta montagna. «Un libro eccezionale. [...] una lettura brillante, che offre molte informazioni inedite.» «Mi sono sentito anch’io sull’Eiger.» Peter Gillmangiornalista, raccontò per primo la storia dei tentativi di scalata del monte Eiger per il «Daily Telegraph» nel 1966. Da allora ha scritto molti libri, tra cui la biografia di George Mallory, il primo che cercò di scalare una vetta dell’Everest, The Wildest Dream, da cui è stato tratto un famoso documentario. Vive a sud-est di Londra, con la moglie e co-autrice Leni. Leni GillmanInsegnante e scrittrice, ha scritto a quattro mani molti volumi insieme al marito Peter, tra cui The Wildest Dream.

La scalata senza fine. Il muro della morte

Dougal Haston

The North Face of the Eiger was long notorious as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had claimed the lives of numerous mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams – one German, the other British–American – aimed to climb it by a new direct route. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each other’s attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The race was on. John Harlin led the four-man British–American team and intended to make an Alpine-style dash for the summit as soon as weather conditions allowed. The Germans, with an eight-man team, planned a relentless Himalayan-style ascent, whatever the weather. The authors were key participants as the dramatic events unfolded. Award-winning writer Peter Gillman, then twenty-three, was reporting for the Telegraph, talking to the climbers by radio and watching their monumental struggles from telescopes at the Kleine Scheidegg hotel. Renowned Scottish climber Dougal Haston was a member of Harlin’s team, forging the way up crucial pitches on the storm-battered mountain. Chris Bonington began as official photographer but then played a vital role in the ascent. Eiger Direct, first published in 1966, is a story of risk and resilience as the climbers face storms, frostbite and tragedy in their quest to reach the summit. This edition features a new introduction by Peter Gillman.

Peter Gillman

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