Veronica Manlow

Eugenia Paulicelli

Elizabeth Wissinger

This collection of original essays interrogates disciplinary boundaries in fashion, gathering fashion studies research across disciplines and from around the globe. Fashion and clothing are part of material and visual culture, cultural memory, and heritage; they contribute to shaping the way people see themselves, interact, and consume. For each of the volume’s eight parts, scholars from across the world and a variety of disciplines offer analytical tools for further research. Never neglecting the interconnectedness of disciplines and domains, these original contributions survey specific topics and critically discuss the leading views in their areas. They include discursive and reflective pieces, as well as discussions of original empirical work, and contributors include established leaders in the field, rising stars, and new voices, including practioner and industry voices. This is a comprehensive overview of the field, ideal not only for undergraduate and postgraduate fashion studies students, but also for researchers and students in communication studies, the humanities, gender and critical race studies, social sciences, and fashion design and business.

The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies

Fashion is all around us: we see it, we buy it, we read aboutit, but most people know little about fashion as a business.Veronica Manlow considers the broader signifi cance offashion in society, the creative process of fashion design,and how fashion unfolds in an organizational contextwhere design is conceived and executed. To get a trueinsider's perspective, she became an intern at fashiongiant Tommy Hilfi ger. Th ere, she observed and recordedhow a business's culture is built on a brand that is linkedto the charisma and style of its leader. Fashion firms are not just in the business of sellingclothing along with a variety of sidelines. Th ese companiesmust also sell a larger concept around which people canidentify and distinguish themselves from others. Manlowdefi nes the four main tasks of a fashion fi rm as creationof an image, translation of that image into a product,presentation of the product, and selling the product. Eachof these processes is interrelated and each requires theeff orts of a variety of specialists, who are often in distantlocations. Manlow shows how the design and presentationof fashion is infl uenced by changes in society, bothcultural and economic. Information about past sales andreception of items, as well as projective research informsdesign, manufacturing, sales, distribution, and marketingdecisions. Manlow offers a comprehensive view of the ways inwhich creative decisions are made, leading up to the creationof actual styles. She helps to defi ne the contributionfashion fi rms make in upholding, challenging, or redefi ningthe social order. Readers will fi nd this a fascinatingexamination of an industry that is quite visible, but littleunderstood. Veronica Manlow is assistant professor inthe Department of Economics at BrooklynCollege.

Culture and Organization of the Fashion Industry

Designing Clothes

Mark Bloomfield

Shaun Borstrock

Silvio Carta

The idea of luxury has secured a place in contemporary western culture, and the term is now part of common parlance in both established and emerging economies. This book explores the many issues and debates surrounding the idea of luxury. This new research addresses contentious issues surrounding perceptions of luxury, its relationship to contemporary branding as created by the marketers, and the impact this has on the consumer and their purchasing habits. Crafting Luxury considers work within the field of luxury and luxury brands, encompassing established companies with a long heritage: from conglomerates and small independents to 'new' luxury and emerging models with innovative practices. It examines the industry structures with respect to production, as well as the hierarchies that exist, and the impact these have on both internal and external perceptions of luxury, from the makers to the sellers and consumers alike. Attention is also given to the working structures of the ateliers, production facilities, origin of materials, manufacture and the impact of technology on consumption, the retail environment and sales, all providing a true insider’s view of this complex world. The authors – a designer of product and jewellery, a brand strategist and a fashion designer, an architect, and a sociologist and specialist in business management – are practitioners and academics. Their approach to dissecting the complex world of luxury brings distinct viewpoints to the debate, offering different perspectives, thoughts and interpretations of luxury. Crafting Luxury will appeal to academics and educators, industry specialists and anyone interested in luxury as a concept. It will appeal to those in a variety of academic and industry disciplines: art history, history, social sciences and humanities with an interest in luxury, fashion studies, design, business, cultural studies and textiles. It will also be valuable to students and researchers in social sciences, humanities, business, design, branding, consumption, retail, architecture, cultural studies, fashion studies and textiles. May also appeal to industry practitioners in retail, design, technology, marketing, the supply chain and manufacture, as well as design professions including architecture, fashion and interior design.

Craftsmanship, Manufacture, Technology and the Retail Environment

Crafting Luxury

Fashion is all around us: we see it, we buy it, we read about it, but most people know little about fashion as a business. Veronica Manlow considers the broader signifi cance of fashion in society, the creative process of fashion design, and how fashion unfolds in an organizational context where design is conceived and executed. To get a true insider's perspective, she became an intern at fashion giant Tommy Hilfi ger. Th ere, she observed and recorded how a business's culture is built on a brand that is linked to the charisma and style of its leader. Fashion firms are not just in the business of selling clothing along with a variety of sidelines. Th ese companies must also sell a larger concept around which people can identify and distinguish themselves from others. Manlow defi nes the four main tasks of a fashion fi rm as creation of an image, translation of that image into a product, presentation of the product, and selling the product. Each of these processes is interrelated and each requires the eff orts of a variety of specialists, who are often in distant locations. Manlow shows how the design and presentation of fashion is infl uenced by changes in society, both cultural and economic. Information about past sales and reception of items, as well as projective research informs design, manufacturing, sales, distribution, and marketing decisions. Manlow offers a comprehensive view of the ways in which creative decisions are made, leading up to the creation of actual styles. She helps to defi ne the contribution fashion fi rms make in upholding, challenging, or redefi ning the social order. Readers will fi nd this a fascinating examination of an industry that is quite visible, but little understood.

Gjoko Muratovski

Anne Peirson-Smith

Joseph Hancock

Fashion branding ismore than just advertising. It hasbeen definedas the cumulative image approach targetingcustomers with products, advertisingand promotions organized around a coherent image. It helps to encourage thepurchase and therepurchase ofconsumer goods from the same company. While historically, fashion branding hasprimarily focused on consumption and purchasing decisions, recent scholarshipnow challenges old methodssuggesting that branding is a process that needs tobe analysed from a stylistic, luxury and historical pop cultural view using critical, ethnographic, individualistic, or interpretive methods. In this book authors explorethe meaning behind fashion brandingin the contextof the contested powerrelations underpinning the production, marketing and consumption of style and fashion as part of our global culture. "

Veronica Manlow

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