The Art and Mystery of the Gentle Craft, an Essay on Boot and Shoe Making

This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can usually download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1834 edition. Excerpt: ... Three very material things arise from not placing the boot leg in the position of the man's leg: First, if the boot leg be near a perpendicular, it will set off in front from the man's leg; secondly, it will be in two great folds behind when the person stands erect; and thirdly, the person will have more trouble to get on such a boot.--And likewise if the length of the quarter of the boot L. c. be cut as above directed, so as that the wide part of the vamp does not press on the flexor of the foot, and the boot leg to be in a perpendicular position, or nearly so; then the tongue of the boot, and the adjoining part of the boot leg, will set off from the upper part of the instab, and the leg in a loose and clumsy form;--Therefore it will be better for the boot to exceed the position of the leg than otherwise; for then it will sit closer to a man's leg in front, and without any folds behind when the boot is drawn up, and will go on with more ease. Now you have the leg pattern in its proper position, 3. c. a. cut it even with the vamp and counter at the bottom from 3 to c, and let the curve of the tongue at c meet the edge of the leg pattern, and let the upper point of the tongue meet the edge of the same at i, and mark the leg pattern from the point i along the curve of the tongue to h; and prick two holes with the point of the awl through the leg pattern, one at h, and the other at K. Then cut off from the leg pattern the marked part till within a quarter of an inch to h, then cut it off sloping to o.--But mind, when you are cutting the boot leg, that you must not cut off as much from the boot leg between c and i as the full width of the tongue; because of the draught of the boot leg (commonly called: ) that is, it must be in proportion to..