The Lost Coast Stories from the Surf

As energy passing through matter organizes matter, so years of intimacy with the ocean and its waves organizes and alters the perceptions of the surfer. The lulls, sets, and rogue waves; the briny stew in which they tumble and struggle; the continual oscillations of reflective surfaces under shifting skies; the lurking presence of "The Landlord" -- all of this alters the senses while it educates the surfer, revealing the laws of the universe on a scale that can be engaged and understood. This collection of stories will pull you into the world of the surfer -- capturing your emotion and engaging your mind. As varied as the patterns of waves, these stories reveal the joy, fear, longing, and ever-present questions of human emotion and existence. Book jacket.