Sparkling Jewels, Opaque Supply Chains Jewelry Companies, Changing Sourcing Practices, and Covid-19

The Covid-19 pandemic has demonstrated the fragility of global supply chains and the vulnerability of people working at the bottom of these supply chains. In the mining sector, the pandemic has had devastating effects on workers and communities around the world. In some parts of Africa, Asia, and Latin America, small-scale mining activity has been reduced or halted due to lockdowns and blocked trade routes. Where mining has been suspended, mine workers and their families have lost their income. Where mining has continued, workers and affected communities have been exposed to increased risks to their human rights. In some small-scale mining areas, child labor has risen. This report scrutinizes and ranks the efforts of 15 major jewelry brands to prevent and address human rights abuses in their gold and diamond supply chains, and tracks progress since Human Rights Watch’s 2018 report on the subject. It also assesses the role of broader industry initiatives, including certification standards. Jewelry companies should do more to fully control their supply chains, assess and address human rights risks, and publicly report on their actions. Voluntary certification standards have helped generate dialogue and supported companies that seek to develop best practice, but they do not always set a high standard. Ultimately, only mandatory human rights due diligence rules—laws—will create a level playing field and move the whole industry in the right direction.